Becky had a ‘thing’ about her eyes being a difficult shape to enhance. Like most of us can be about ourselves, she was actually pretty cruel about them. So when she suggested that I show her how to make the most of her beautiful green eyes with her overflowing makeup bag I was happy to help!
The brief was to make the most of her eye shape when she was going ‘out-out’, without closing her eye or making her eyes small.
Here’s how we made Bec’s ‘small eyes’ seem bigger:
- Firstly we used a neutral eye base. A good universal on is Painterly from MAC. This got rid of any discolouration, gave a good base to work on and will keep eyeshadow in place.
- Bec was used to using 3 eyeshadow colours to create a smokey eye, but always steered clear of dark browns and blacks. So we picked a very light bone eyeshadow with a hint of shimmer and placed this in the inner corner of the eye and used our medium shade in the outer corner. We swept our medium shade from the lash line into reverse C kind of shape and blended a little, just to get rid of any harsh lines.
- The liner is where all the magic happens on a smaller eye shape. To make a statement I’d pick black every time. And we lined Bec’s eye in three sections on the upper lash line. So imagine a plane taking off from your lash line (seriously). The line should be tight into your lash line in the corner of your eye, on the lash line in the middle section and above the lash line to create a triangle on the outer corner. Set and slightly buff that with a dark eye shadow, which will stop the line looking too harsh and it’ll hide any mistakes.
- Under the eye is an important part of a smaller eye shape. The ‘perfect’ eye shape in beauty is an almond eye. That’s the shape you’re trying to emulate. So think about where would be best to place the eye shadow to create this shape with your eye. On Bec this was a 3/4 line in black which slowly got thinner and petered out towards the inside (by the nose). Set and slightly buff that so it isn’t harsh and it won’t move.
- Lashes make people panic. But they shouldn’t. I’d panic if I had to apply a strip lash to myself. It’s just not that easy, especially of you wear glass like me and Bec. So get some clusters by Eyelure and take a medium knot. Think about where would be best to place the cluster to make the eye open. That place is just off centre (towards the nose). To open the eye the longest lashes need to be around about the middle. Then use the shorter ones to fan out back to the edges. If you wanted a cats eye, the longest one’s would be on the outer corner (a cats eye would close the eye, with me?).
- To make the eyes even wider you can line the waterline with a cappuccino/nude coloured liner. Rimmel do a good one. And obviously use lots of mascara, particularly in the centre of the eye to open it.
Conversely, if you’ve got small eyes don’t:
- Put too much dark liner in the waterline.
- Use a very dark shadow across the whole of the lid; at least have a highlight colour in the inner corner.
And I’d always suggest covering any dark circles if you’re going ‘out-out’, it’s one way to lift your whole face, make your eyes seem brighter and more wide awake. Click here for how to do that.
Making the most of any eye shape is really just about deciding on the best places to put product to make the most of your features. And obviously, not only leaving yourself ten minutes to do it in before you’re going out. Give yourself time to play around.